• wagah border india pakistan amritsar

Wacky Wagah Border: India & Pakistan [video]

The Wagah Border is the only passing between Pakistan and India, two countries that sort of want to blow each other up. Everyone said go to the border, it’s “interesting”. They put on a show everyday and open the gates for two seconds.

So we went to the Wagah Border Parade. We knew nothing, so I decided it would be fun to show you a video of what we saw and let you feel as shocked and confused as I did! Then after the video I’ll explain a little more about it. FYI, this was before I had a blog and quality is well, horrible but still worth a watch!


We didn’t know whether to laugh, dance, cheer, or stand there with our heads to the side like a confused dog.

First of all, when we arrived they took us to a different line and without a word checked our passports (you MUST take yours) and send us to the “foreigners” section which was quite small, but still larger than I thought it would be.

wagah border india pakistan amritsar

It was set up like a sports match. The Indian side was PACKED, while the Pakistani side was very small and males and females were separated.

wagah border india pakistan amritsar

While the guards practiced high-kicks in the background, Indian girls danced in the center to fun Indian music while the men ran up and down the isles with Indian flags. Everyone was so happy. It reminded me of a Saturday outing to a baseball game… sort of.

The guards then did their show. With similar outfits to the Pakistan soldiers, and similar high-kicks, it made me wonder if they practice together. The show was fun-loving while they held serious, mean faces. It was all fun, no tension.

wagah border india pakistan amritsar

After the gates on each side opened for just a couple seconds, they were closed again and it was all over. The crowds disappeared and we all got bags of popcorn on the way out, asking each other, “what the hell just happened?”

It was fun and I would go again. I did expect it to be more dangerous and exciting, rather than fun and suitable for four year olds, but the surprise of the show kind of turned me into a child again!

It was as strange as seeing snipers standing on a Gandhi sign…

wagah border india pakistan amritsar

Practical Information: 

  • The border crossing is 30 km from Amritsar’s Golden Temple. I came here on a day trip from McLeod Ganj because we had a day off massage class. We saw the temple first as it’s 24/7 but you should be at the border by 4 pm or earlier. Although we hired a driver, there are buses and trains you can take with ease.
  • If you want to cross the border, it must be pre-arranged.
  • There is VIP, foreign, women, and general seating. In case of busy days like holidays they may get full, but you can watch from the fence.
  • NO PURSES/NO BAGS. You must put your camera and or phone, money, and passport in your pocket. We left our purses with our driver (eek, finger’s crossed… we owed him about 5,000 rupees so assumed it was okay.) If you have nowhere, they will lock it up for you.



About the Author:

Rachel Jones left a career in nursing and lived on the beaches of Goa, India for the five years. Now she lives in Mexico where she gives advice on the 40+ countries she’s visited in the last 10 years. She’s the author of two India travel e-books: Guide to India and Insider’s Guide to Goa. Her blog, Hippie in Heels, like its name, is a contradiction combining off-beat adventurous places with glamorous and bespoke travel. Hippie in Heels has been featured in ELLE, Marie Claire, Grazia, and Cosmopolitan magazines. She’s a writer for Bravo TV.


  1. Joella J in Beijing June 25, 2014 at 11:18 am - Reply

    Ok then…errrm..what? haha I had no idea but that is totally fun and unexpected. They should do that at every border. Does anyone actually ever cross the border there do you think?

    • Rachel Jones June 26, 2014 at 1:54 am - Reply

      lol exactly… what happened!? lol and no, they don’t do it at every border, just this one. People do cross! But you need a lot of paperwork. actually, when the lines were drawn by the english, it divided farms etc and split families, so some cross often.

      • Joelle June 20, 2015 at 2:35 pm - Reply

        Wondering how to cross the border to Pakistan :)

        • Rachel Jones June 21, 2015 at 2:23 am - Reply

          not sure, but know you have to have the permission ahead and can cross at wagah if you have the paperwork… they had a terrorist attack maybe a year ago so you might want to research that well.

          • Joelle June 21, 2015 at 1:16 pm

            Hi Rachel, just realise you are in Malaysia….Welcome to Malaysia!! If you are visiting KL let me know if you are keen to meet up before next Friday :)

          • Rachel Jones June 21, 2015 at 10:06 pm

            Oh I’ve already left! But actually didn’t get to spend time in KL. Went to langkawi for a week , was lovely!

  2. Elora June 26, 2014 at 7:09 am - Reply

    Well that was certainly interesting! :)

  3. Rebekah June 25, 2014 at 10:08 pm - Reply

    that’s really bizarre… Does india do things like that at other borders? I guess its sort of nice that they can do something fun but still it seems strange, especially the snipers on Ghandi… this blog always makes me super curious about India

  4. Elena@Elena's Travelgram June 26, 2014 at 8:31 am - Reply

    Been to the border too! It was so fun :) I was all surrounded by the local school girls who asked if they could hold my hand and hug me. It was really sweet.

    And them one of the women on the security check asked for a photo when I went back to grab my water.

    • Rachel Jones June 27, 2014 at 1:12 am - Reply

      ahh that is sweet! The border was so strange but all the kids there were cute.

  5. Audrey July 5, 2014 at 10:30 pm - Reply

    I haven’t been to this part of India so I haven’t seen the ceremony in person, but I remember the first time Sam showed me a video of it…haha, it looked awesome! I love that it’s turned into a bit of a performance and people come to watch and cheer them on from both sides.

    • Rachel Jones July 8, 2014 at 5:09 am - Reply

      Yeah it was almost like a football game! It was so funny to watch especially having not read about it beforehand. I wasn’t sure what to expect.

  6. […] temple is just a few kilometers from the Wagah border to Pakistan, the ONLY place you can cross the entire border. This Punjabi region has a volatile past and […]

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